A conversion at St. Peter's
I'm not the tourist type. My neighborhood in New York is always overrun by people wearing comfortable clothes and cameras clutching guide books and asking "Scusi, where Greenwich Village?" I am always gracious but wish they would walk a little faster and get a clue.
But in Rome, do as the Romanians do. Get a guide book, a map, and start blundering around town. Nonetheless, despite my backpack, my folding stool, my sandals, and my sweaty, parched ways, I try to pretend not to be desperately foreign. Of course, I fail. Waiters address me in English, vendors hawk after me with postcards and foot high replicas of David
My self-loathing came to an end in Vatican City. When I lined up with the rest of the unwashed and finally reached the portal of St.Peter's, I was so overcome by the beauty and splendor of the place that I just let go and gawked. Wow. The plundered marble and bronze of the Coliseum is mind-bpoggling lavish.. And then, waiting until the end of the day to avoid the lines, I swept through the Vatican Museum to the Sistine Chapel, discovering amazing things I'd never known along the way. The map room, hundreds of yards long and encrusted with thousands of perfect paintings worked into the walls and ceilings, the Raphael frescoes (how could the Pope manage the hubris to command such geniuses to paint his apartment floor to ceiling, wall after wall? Here he is a single guy with the most ornate, Baroque pad in the universe.. How did he sleep in there at night? It's awesome), and then finally the Sistine. I have read books about it, seen endless reproductions and thought I grasped Michelangelo's accomplishment. But to be confronted by so much epic scenery, so many perfect,
enormous bodies...; whether he painted it alone or with a crew, it's an incredible, deeply moving feat.
I gush. I can't help it. Despite my cynicism and my discomfort with the Papacy's greed, I may have to go again. My name is Danny and I'm a tourist (don't tell my boss — I am here working after all).
A record of my exploration into all aspects of drawing, illustrated journaling, creativity, and the inspiring aspects of art. By the author of "Everyday Matters," "The Creative License", and "An Illustrated Life" and other books.
Comments
"I just let go and gawked. Wow... It's awesome..." Even with your 21st century "cynicism" and "discomfort."
Just imagine how someone from the 16th, 17th, 18th or even 19th centuries would have felt walking into such grandeur. It must have truly been an awesome religious experience.
Posted by: Edwin | July 22, 2005 01:16 PM
Before he became Pope Pius XII, the then Cardinal Pacelli was the subject of my favourite photograph of all time (by perhaps the greatest photographer of all time: Henri Cartier-Bresson).
Posted by: Richard Carter | July 22, 2005 02:02 PM
This is so much fun, seeing Rome with you! Your drawings are wonderful.
I'm with the guy from yesterday: did you bring a scanner with you? How are you posting these pages? However it is, you're illuminating my dreary day in the "cube"
As always, thanks!
Posted by: cg | July 22, 2005 02:06 PM
Danny - Thanks. Reminds me to put this on the to do travel list. Just a note - that the church did this historically and mainly appreciated "treasures" to educate the people (rich and poor) Hopefully there is still a great crowd going thru there in order to educate even more...seems as though that early decision still educates many. My cynical side - full employment artist programme worked out too :) Enjoy the all the scenery and the food, even tho u r working.
Posted by: patty | July 22, 2005 02:49 PM
My husband and I were supposed to be in Rome for ten days in early July, but he got sick and we couldn't go. I'm enjoying seeing the city through your eyes. Hope your foot is better!
Posted by: Loretta | July 22, 2005 08:40 PM
Wow, what a sight to see! Revel in your tourist status Danny-I am still just dreaming of being a tourist where you are now. Just great drawings-thanks so much for posting them while you are gone and not waiting til you get back. I check everyday to see what you are getting to see!
Posted by: Joyce | July 22, 2005 09:36 PM
These drawings are ALL so nice. I think we are all enjoying your trip.
Thanks for doing them.
Posted by: DW | July 23, 2005 07:48 AM
Incredible drawings. Thanks so much for sharing them with us. Bernini truly was a rock-star. My wife and I were in Rome last month and tried to see as much of his stuff as possible. A good spot is the Borghese gallery. It's not as crowded because they have a 2-hour admission rule. They allow a specific number of people in at a time and then clear out the gallery.
Reservations are recommended. Here's the url:
http://www.ticketeria.it/ticketeria/borghese-eng.asp
The audio guide is great.
Also, if you do go, start your visit from the top of the building down to avoid the crowd.
Hope this helps!
Posted by: Paul | July 26, 2005 11:37 AM